Stitched in resistance: Montserrat Messeguer and the Norteña revolution

A model wearing Montserrat Messeguer. Image credit: Montserrat Messeguer

by Ambika Subra.

A resistance movement is sweeping through Mexico, stitched in deep brown leather, dusted with desert sand, and pulsing to the rhythms of Norteño cowboys - or rather, cowgirls. Once tied to rural identity, Norteño fashion is now stepping into the global spotlight, fueled by the meteoric rise of modern corrido music. Artists like Peso Pluma and Natanael Cano are carrying the sound of the North to international audiences, evolving the image of the modern vaquero. At the heart of this cultural shift stands Montserrat Messeguer, a designer transforming Norteño fashion from a regional aesthetic into a global statement of power, defiance, and female empowerment—a vehicle for the women’s revolutionary movement that is redefining Mexico’s cultural narrative.

For decades, cowboy culture was synonymous with masculinity, shaped by charros, ranchers, and corrido ballads that celebrated the rugged toughness of men. Today’s vaquero, however, is a sleek icon—boots polished, gold chains glinting, blending designer brands with ranchero influences. Corrido superstars have turned cowboy boots, massive belt buckles, and wide-brimmed hats into symbols of success, rewriting the tumbado aesthetic. Yet, the true revolution lies in women claiming this identity. Led by visionaries like Messeguer, they’re using fashion to challenge patriarchal norms and assert their place in this storied tradition.

Messeguer’s designs are at the forefront of this women’s revolutionary movement, empowering the modern Norteña to lead the charge. Her collections, worn by global icons like Dua Lipa and Emily Ratajkowski, reframe Norteño fashion as a platform for female strength and independence. The modern vaquera she envisions isn’t a background figure—she’s the protagonist, bold and unapologetic. This shift echoes broader changes in cowboy culture, where escaramuzas—Mexico’s fearless female equestrians—are gaining visibility, their elegance and athleticism earning admiration in the male-dominated world of rodeo. Messeguer’s charro-inspired silhouettes and resilient leather pieces honor these women, celebrating their power.

A model wearing Montserrat Messeguer. Image credit: Montserrat Messeguer

This Norteño resurgence reflects a global hunger for something raw and untamed in a digital, corporate-driven world. The cowboy symbolizes self-reliance and freedom. For women, this revival is resistance. Fashion becomes their vehicle to fight for visibility, challenging hierarchical structures that have sidelined them. Messeguer’s designs—leathers from traditional artisans, cuts echoing charro uniforms—tell this story of defiance, weaving the past into a future where women lead.

Raised between Northern Mexico and Mexico City’s creative scene, Messeguer fuses historical craftsmanship with modern tailoring, proving Norteño style is a living language of tradition and reinvention. Her work rewrites the cowboy narrative, centering women as revolutionary figures bridging past and future, rural roots and global stages.

As Norteño fashion ascends, the question is no longer whether it belongs in high fashion, but how far its influence will reach. Messeguer and her contemporaries are proving that the cowboy is not a museum artifact but a vibrant, evolving figure—especially in the form of a woman who embodies the spirit of resistance. In her hands, the Norteño aesthetic isn’t just surviving—it’s thriving. The boots are back, the hats are sharp, and the story of the North is being retold.

Only this time, it’s by the Norteñas, and the whole world is listening.